Month: August 2012


Sahale Peak from the Sahale Arm

Yesterday, I led a Mountaineers climb up Sahale Peak. It was a real treat to take six of my climbing students out for an end of season climb (plus a few other great folks). They’ve come such a long way, and I’m really proud of what they’ve accomplished.

We left the Diamond Mine TH at 4:45 a.m. and reached the summit via the Quien Sabe Glacier about 5 1/2 hours later. After a short break, we dropped off the opposite side onto the Sahale Glacier and hiked down the Sahale Arm. The weather was perfect; the group was cheerful; it was a perfect climb. Here is our adventure in pictures:

MBO 2012

I have a confession: I think mountain biking is only okay. Given a choice between mountain biking and climbing, I’d pick climbing every time. That is, until I visited Oakridge, OR last weekend. Nick and I were there for Mountain Bike Oregon, a three-day dirt riding event. The idea is to show up with your bikes, and someone else takes care of everything else. And they mean everything – camping, food, shuttles, beer!, food, shuttles, and beer!

By the end of the weekend, I’d fallen in love with mountain biking. How can you not when the trails are relatively smooth, there’s always more descending than climbing, temps are in the 80s, and there’s always a frosty beverage at the end of the day to soothe the aches and pains?

Each day we loaded our bikes onto cargo trucks and hopped on a school bus which took us to the start of the day’s ride.

I mentioned that the trails were in great shape. Did I mention that sometimes we had interesting “obstacles” to negotiate?

Nick was much, much faster than me. The great thing about the event, though, is that you always have someone to ride with and someone to share your PB&J with.

The beer garden in the evening is a hoot. All ages are welcome!

More importantly, you could race to win a Niner mountain bike frame. Neither Nick, nor our friend James did as well as they hoped:

New summit #26 – Del Campo

On Saturday, Boglarka and I took mountain bikes to Barlow Pass for a super fun adventure on Del Campo Peak. We left the TH at 8 a.m. in the company of a group of Mountaineers, but soon left them in our dust. (They didn’t have the foresight to bring bikes.)

In no time, we were hiking up the trail, which is true to its mining roots. (That means it goes straight up!) We were somewhat surprised to find Foggy Lake still frozen. No swimming for us… No matter, we had a mountain to climb!

Our route was pretty straight forward. Skirt the lake, ascend the ridge, then the permanent snowfield to an obvious notch between the peak and the south buttress. (It really is obvious.) Scramble up to the left of the notch to the skyline, then turn left and continue up to the summit.

And that’s what we did!

We waited for the group of Mountaineers to show up, hoping to descend while they were hanging on the summit. They were more than an hour behind us, so we had plenty of time to relax and enjoy our summit treats – fresh oranges and Milka chocolat. Yum!

Once the Mounties arrived, we hot-footed it back to the bikes and gloated as we road past all the suckers walking the 1.8 miles of road back to the cars. A most excellent day!

Fourth time’s the charm!

I’ve been to Olympus three times already and never made it to the summit. Needless to say, this peak is my nemesis. To break the spell, I scheduled a five-day trip with the aim of climbing both Mt. Olympus and Mt. Tom – a rarely climbed peak about as far away from any trailhead as a peak can get.

On day 1, we drove to the Hoh Ranger Station, stopping at the WIC in Port Angeles for our permit and bear canisters along the way. We hiked the Hoh River Trail 15.2 miles to Elk Lake where we made camp at the group site.

Day 2, we hiked up to the lateral moraine, crossed the Blue Glacier, and worked our way up to the rocky slopes on the side of Panic Peak, near the UW research station. There, we met the caretaker, David Skinner, who generously offered to supply us with melted snow for the duration of our stay. David is a fixture in the summer, and quite the friendly host. If you camp there, consider bringing him a pershing donut (his favorite kind) or some other treat to thank him for all the hard work he does maintaining the historic structure up there and melting water for climbers. We made camp on the side of Panic Peak, about 200’ below the summit. There are beautiful campsites there with awesome views of Olympus and Tom. The sunsets, moonrises, and sunrises were out of this world. It can be quite windy there, so factor that into your tent/bivy choice.

Day 3, we were off to climb Mt. Tom. There are three bumps on the ridge just west of Mt. Olympus. The correct notch to pass through is the one between the two bumps on the right. (We made the mistake of going through the other notch and had to backtrack a bit.)

From the notch, we dropped a couple hundred feet down the snow until a notch on the adjoining ridge that leads to arguably the most horrible, nasty scramble I’ve ever been experienced. We divided into two groups (3 people and 4 people) to descend to the snow below. One of our party decided that it was too exposed and too crumbly, so he returned to the ridge to await our return. Total time to get two groups down this section was about 3 hours. It could easily be done in less time with a smaller group of more confident scramblers. Whatever you do – stay close together and move very, VERY carefully! (One party member knocked a large rock loose that almost ended in a double MOFA incident.)

Once we were on the snow, the remainder of the climb went quickly. We stayed left and high to attain the ridge leading to the summit of Mt. Tom. Camp to summit: 8 hours.

After examining the summit register we concluded that we were the first party in 2012 and only the second party in two years to reach the summit. This is truly a rarely climbed peak.

After relaxing for a bit, we headed down. Ascending the loose gully was much easier than going down it naturally, and we were back at camp in no time. Summit to camp: 3 ½ hours. Since we were so close to the summit of Panic Peak, we all made the easy trip to the top to watch the sun set over the Pacific Ocean and the lights of Victoria come on to the north. This is honestly one of the prettiest sunsets I’ve ever seen.

Day 4 dawned early and we roped up for an attempt on Mt. Olympus. We reached Crystal Pass in about 45 minutes and the base of the rock not too long afterwards. The hardest part of the climb was getting everyone off the snow and onto the summit block. We rigged a hand line so no one would slip. Then it was an easy scramble to the top. We descended back to camp, where David had pitchers of ice cold koolaid and lawn chairs waiting for us. (This man is my hero!)

We enjoyed a much needed break before packing up and heading back across the Blue Glacier and down to Elk Lake again. A couple logs extend out into the lake and make the perfect diving platform for a plunge in the cool (but not cold) waters. After three days on the glacier, the swim was very welcome!

Day 5, we packed up and hiked 15.2 miles to the TH. All in all a most excellent trip!